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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.